The problem is that's a non standard size steel pole and the standard wall thickness for 1. Steel rusts of course so pretty much all steel masting is galvanised, but pre galv which is by far the most common has very much thinner protection than hot dip galvanising , in fact they're like chalk and cheese, see pre galv v hot dip galv corrosion resistance.
The problem is it is very difficult to get hold of hot dip galv steel poles because they are a lot more expensive to manufacture and it is therefore a specialist product. We have our hot dip galv steel 1. Anyway, bolt the Starlink to the 1. Our Starlink cranked pole install kits are based on a 6.
Note : our 1. However, if it was me, I'd definitely be going further up the pole to maximise the strength of the install , up to just before the point where the cable exits and then packing the thinner end out to match the diameter of the wider section, see above. If I needed to put the Starlink onto a longer pole I'd either :.
This is possibly the most elegant, strongest and neatest install, see article on this. The alternative to a pole coupler or a "sleeved install" is a 2x2 pole clamp or a parallel clamp kit available in galvanised at 2", 2. It will look a bit agricultural but has the advantage that the Starlink can be clamped to the top of any pole up to 4" in diameter. Normally we would recommend two rather than just one 2x2 clamps - and certainly two sets of the parallel clamp kits - to maximise the stability of the install.
That said, even just one 2x2 would be stronger that the Starlink "genuine" pole adapter! None of our recommended mounts utilise the Starlink pole's "sprung pins" which are simply compressed inwards out of the way , but that is good thing! The idea of holding a satellite dish onto its mounting pole using "sprung pins" is unique to Starlink other than satellite systems for caravans and that has to tell you something In fact, apparently, "SpaceX advises that for maximum security and safety, a tether is recommended to keep the dish attached to the building".
I was incredulous when I read that, I have never heard that advice for any aerial or satellite, ever. Have they really so little confidence in how sturdy their product is?
So, basically, if it was me, I would not be relying on the "sprung pins" to keep your Starlink from, err, flying off. Fairly early on you need to decide how long you want the pole to be upon which you will install your Starlink and how far out from the wall it needs to be in order to clear any fascia or gutter or whatever , this is the " stand off ".
The latter wants to include a gap of at least 2" to avoid any chance of the pole banging against the fascia and to facilitate any future maintenance of the latter. We recommend you get up there and check exactly what stand off you need before ordering your bracket! Will the install be on the wall or the chimney as different brackets should be used for each? Bear in mind that the Starlink, like any satellite dish, should be mounted as rigidly as possible, to minimise any movement caused by the wind.
Thus the brackets pole you select should be of the heavy duty type and spaced appropriately where applicable , plus the pole should be of sufficient diameter and wall thickness to minimise any flexing, see article on " satellite poles ".
An alternative to brackets with a large stand off is, of course, the cranked pole , and they can look neater. However, in order to minimise movement of the Starlink installation, we would only recommend three cranked poles for it though the 1. If using a cranked pole, particularly a Supercrank, consideration should be given to using saddles with the V bolts not required with low profiles brackets as they have saddle type clamps.
Other useful articles for installing Starlink : 1 - Which bracket for which pole length? Mounting Starlink onto a flat roof is easy because our heavy duty flat roof mounting kit's pole just happens to be the right internal diameter 40mm to sleeve a Starlink pole straight into!
However, with Starlink, the plug is already on the "power over ethernet" cable and therefore you have to drill a hole of sufficient size for that to pass through. In fact the hole wants to be a bit bigger so as to ensure it gets through both walls relatively easily with the minimum chance of damage. We would recommend a hole at least 22mm in diameter, even bigger will make it easier to get the plug through but will obviously, err, leave a bigger hole.
Whatever teh size of teh hole, we recommend filling it with silicone. Feed a welding rod or similar through the hole, and tape the Starlink cable to that, then pull it through as gently as possible. The cable is about ft long Don't forget to install a "drip loop" , also see other tips when running cables. The fact is that the risk of lightning striking your house really is quite remote.
More to the point, if your house does actually get struck by lightning it probably won't have been due to the Starlink being there, and the chances are that half your roof would get blown off anyway, so under those circumstances whether your Starlink has been damaged really would be the least of your worries…..
I would not have thought the lightning threat with Starlink is much different to that with TV aerials, so see lightning risk with TV aerials.
Login Remember me. Lost your password? Click "Open Wifi Settings" and join the Starlink network. Then set up your WiFi with a name and password on the app, and connect to it on your phone's WiFi settings. Go back to the app to check when the terminal connects to the satellites. It will then tilt to align with any of the 1, Starlink satellites in orbit. This may take a few minutes.
Check out contributor Alex Lockie's experience with Starlink after moving to rural Vermont and the comparison with Hughes Net. Are you a Starlink user with an interesting story about the service? How have you found Starlink customer support? Get in touch with this reporter at kduffy insider. For you. World globe An icon of the world globe, indicating different international options.
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